Over the past few years, I have traveled to Havana, Cuba several times with a group of 5 other dance photographers. As a trained social/cultural anthropologist who has conducted academic research in West Africa, Cuba has always appealed to me. But travel to the island has been restricted by the US embargo in which US citizens have been forbidden by statute. “Touristic activities” remain prohibited but there are certain travel categories under which Americans can travel. We travel under a visa category “support for the Cuban people.” This means that Americans must lodge in “casa particulares” which are private homes. We are allowed to visit Cuban-owned businesses, we can enjoy tours run by Cubans, we can visit independent museums, and we eat in locally-owned restaurants. But there remain many challenges and considerations. American credit and debit cards are not accepted. And the internet is very limited and provided only by a Cuban telecommunications company called ETECSA.
The purpose of these travels was to photograph ballet dancers from the Ballet Nacional de Cuba. Many of these ballet dancers were indeed photographed but along the way we gained access to a dance rehearsal of Santería dancers which fell more in line with my personal interests.
This series of images captures dynamic portraiture of a troupe of Santería dancers who represent a culture and spiritual heritage stretching back to the Yoruba people of West Africa. The setting for this rehearsal was an old abandoned movie theater called Cine Verdun. In its finest days, it had a sliding roof. Dilapidated now, it is open to the sky. Light comes in through the tattered roof. (Images included.) Of course we had to bring in our own lighting.
Santería is popular throughout Cuba, but outside of Havana the cities of Santiago and Matanzas have the largest number of followings. Ceremonies usually include dancing, chanting and drumming. In Santiago, the streets are lined with stands selling items used in ceremonies, including feathers, candles, bones, stones, herbs, and live animals. We actually viewed a sacrifice of chickens along the riverbed, an activity that was sacred and forbidden from being photographed. We could only witness the sacrifice from a distance.
Thank you to Maria Fonseca for this story on Cuban Santeria!
www.mariafonsecaphotography.com
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